An attention grabbing first look, from the exposure of a simple shoulder, but dig a little deeper and this Dion Lee collection was a combination of top curation and craft. Summer was referenced with all sorts of cut out shapes; high-cut cycling shorts and half-foot shoes.
Some tenacious details in the second look; a grey wool blazer toggled in at the waist by two knots of fabric, and peeks of what looked like a navy lycra or super smooth cotton body suit with thumb holes.
Lee used some striking but understated models, note; cropped haired brunette with very strong eye brows and facial features, and her stance; unshakable, statuesque, as seen in look 9 and 31.
Standout pieces from this segment were the thatched grey tailoring, especially the trousers and matching jacket in look 10, frayed vertically at the knees, this was a refreshing textural take on the ripped knees we have seen for too long lately.
At Look 16, the collection got sexy; an all black ensemble; black tee, smooth leather jacket and matching skirt with front slit. Quite a hard and boxy silhouette, freed up by its feminine command.
To follow with more leather was a split shoulder top with diamond broach to hold the two parts together and a smooth leather ankle grazing trouser, with flip flops.
The model was perfectly paired with her outfit in look 20; a shrunken version of the cropped split shoulder top seen in the last look, showing a lot of midriff, beautiful lengthy arms, and trousers which were the right shape; fitted to the hips and loosely draped down the leg; done in a two-tone, navy and black fabric.
Look 30 was a bit of a show stopper in its own right; a head-to-toe shiny streetwear look; navy parker and track type pants produced in the same fabric. Somehow this managed to look effortless and elegant, owing to the models non-plussed look, understated styling and some super square white frames.
One of my favourite looks was number 31. Starting from the shoes; super simple black patent flip flops, a mint green 80’s track jacket paired with a bellowing silk skirt silhouette, sliced into at the thighs to give it a more rounded and voluminous shape.
Look 35 paired two style traits that appeared throughout the show; silk and the casual track style jacket; contrasted with a longer length, mermaid lattice skirt that showed a little skin, this made it something special.
Look 37 was a favourite of mine, a smarter look that was perfectly crafted in terms of the fit of the blazer; hugging the shape as a dress would, aided by the fabric choice; another smooth silk, and the mid-length aquatic lattice skirt peeking out from below made it.
Look 38 was another favourite, with the same model as in Look 20, killing it in a one-shoulder silk cut up blazer top paired with black PVC trousers and pointed nude leather heels.
For elegance, look 39 wins on all accounts; a neutral bandage style one shoulder top paired with silk-waisted creamy satin nude gold skirt that changed fabric mid way down, and flip flops.
It’s not often you feel something ‘new’ but this collection made me feel this way. It was fresh and not too New York. The tone changed so many times; as transitions or scenes in a movie; the slate kept getting wiped clean, and this made it more attractive. It was clear that there was a lot of expert editing here, a lot of cuts had to be made before selecting the final few looks. Each transition brought with it its own style, which changed the pace of the show as frequently as it should. It moved the sections into each other and pushed onto something even more exciting, and silk showed up to tie them all together.
Image credits: SHOWstudio