London Menswear S/S 18: Top 3

Astrid Andersen:

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Image: SHOWstudio

A shimmer of sea tones, utilitarian uniforms and two-time textures appeared on a line-up of cavernous male models. Cultures combined in oriental petite florals and an ornate lace head scarf. Astrid’s theming was intelligent and purposeful, something that felt right, with just enough cohesion and chaos to make the commercial cuts it requires to populate in places of interest. Her experimental streak is so obvious, almost amateur. Placing her and her supporters at the edge of  their seats every time, making them more interested in the present than anything before.

Wales Bonner:

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Image: SHOWstudio

Wales Bonner makes statements beyond materials, as subject matter is offered up freely in spite of the times. A questioning of what our pre-conceptions could be, and what they still shouldn’t be. A question of personal integrity and identity raised by slimline figurines; reserved as singular pieces, but as a whole presenting a powerful case for personal refuge. Silhouettes seemed so standard they threatened to take the special away from the show, but what they did was bring the special to the show, as recurring observer’s all part of Bonner’s world view.

Cottweiler:

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Image: SHOWstudio

Cottweiler’s casting had rhythmic affect; a lucid continuation of earlier concepts touched on by the designers; their thought processes were laid bare in this setting. Fabrics came close to becoming skin tone, each a new antidote for an accompanying set of textures. Every look was impeccably executed, with puritan spirit and graceful jest. Some social commentary in the form of controversial garments; undone, torn, a far cry from the streetwear they were once synonymous with.


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